Hockey Made Easy - Tips for first time th Hockey Parents & Players
Skates - skating is the most important skill to play hockey, yet the most difficult to master at a young age.

If possible, try to purchase a new pair of good quality skates. It will make a whole world of difference in

your child’s hockey development and skating performance.

If unable to do so, try to purchase the best quality used skates you can find that fit properly,

still has good strong ankle support and reasonably good blade life remaining.

This would be based on the remaining depth of the blades and they should be at least ½ inch in depth at the bottom centre of the blade and must be free of rust in order to hold an edge when sharpened.

Skates must fit snugly but not cramp your toes and they must have good upright ankle support.

One pair of thin 100% breathable cotton socks is all you should wear, not 2 or 3 pair of sport socks.

Skates are usually ½ to 1 size smaller than dress or running shoes to provide a glove like fit.

However, young players, 5 to 10 years of age, can allow some room for their feet to grow

but no more than a finger width between heal and back of skate.

Players 11 and older should try to have skates that fit like a glove.

Lacing - the criss-cross or “X” method of lacing is considered the most comfortable and stable.

The bottom 3 eyelets should be semi-loose to allow blood to circulate to your toes; this will prevent them from freezing.

The middle 3 eyelets should be semi-tight, not really tight, in order to allow the up and down movement of the top part of the foot allowing it to expand and contract when starting and stopping.

The top 3 eyelets must be tight to keep your ankle secure in an upright position and to prevent it from bending to the inside or outside.

There is no truth to the rumor that some people have weak ankles. That’s a myth!

Do not wrap the extra length of laces around the ankle as this hinders the forward flex of the foot and ankle and will impair your child’s skating speed and turning ability.

Just tie them with a regular bow knot at the front of the skate like you tie shoes.

If the laces are too long and there is an overhang and they drag on the ice, I suggest you purchase shorter ones from your rinks equipment store or skate sharpening booth.

Otherwise tuck them up and under the shin pad. Laces are now available in various lengths.

Blades - the skate blades must be sharp, but not razor sharp or you will dig too deeply into the ice.

But sharp enough in order for you to stop, start and turn without falling.

If they are too dull, your child will slip and slide all over the ice and have a hard time standing up because there is no grip or skating edge cutting into the ice.

If they are too sharp, they will dig deeply into the ice and prevent smooth stops and create what is like a stutter stop and possibly cause you to fall.
 

You can rub the blades on a piece of wood to dull the blades a little bit or you can purchase a special stone from your skate sharpener to do the same trick.

If you get a deep nick or burr on the bottom or side edge of your blade you will fall. An experienced skate sharpening professional should sharpen them as soon as possible.

 

A good skate sharpening can mean all the difference between playing a great hockey game, or having a poorly played hockey performance.

Sharpening - you should not need your skates sharpened every game, but every to 6 to 8 hours of practice and games usually dulls the blades. However if you are playing in a “AAA” league that practices and plays 4 to 6 times a week, or you get a nick or burr on the blade’s edge you will require more skate sharpening.

A good skate sharpener will cut a hollow ground U shape in the bottom center of the blade, this provides 2 edges, an inside edge and an outside edge, both are used at different times during the game for stops, starts, turns, 180 degree pivots, crossovers etc.

The depth of the cut should be based on your child’s height and weight.

A medium sharpening, not razor sharp is all you require.

This will keep you in a stable upright position and allow you to just bite

into the top layer of ice, to push and glide without falling.

Sticks - after skates, your stick is one of the most important pieces of hockey equipment because it’s used for both scoring and preventing goals.

Just like skates and other protective equipment, the stick must fit your body and skating style properly if you are going to develop your shooting, scoring, passing, puckhandling and stick handling skills.

2 sticks should be taken to both practices and games in case one breaks.

You do not have to purchase a $200 - $300 one piece carbon graphite stick.

Wooden sticks which cost about $15 to $25 are fine for young hockey players.

Length - the sticks length when in an upright position and while you are standing in your skates should come up to between your mouth (maximum) and your collar bone (minimum).

If it is any longer or shorter you will have difficulty shooting or carrying the puck.

Experiment with different stick lengths to find the most comfortable.

The entire stick blade should lie flat on the ice when carrying the puck and shooting.

If the toe of the stick blade rides up off the ice this is an indication that the stick is too long.

Also, how you skate with the puck, either bent over, or more up right, will influence the length of the stick.

Experiment with different stick lengths to see which is most comfortable and allows you to perform at your best.

Lie - the lie of a stick is the angle where the shaft meets the blade.

The higher the angle 135 degrees, the further the puck is away from your feet.

The lower the angle 110 degrees, the closer the puck is to your feet.

Its trial and error to see which lie is best for your child based on the way they skate while carrying the puck.

Either bent over like Wayne Gretzky did (a higher angle) or carrying the puck more up right like Mario Lemieux did (a lower angle).

No stick manufacturers ever put the lie’s angle on the stick for you to know and I don’t understand that.

Once you find the right stick model and lie keep buying it as no 2 different stick manufacturer’s models are exactly alike in lie, curve, weight, balance or shaft stiffness.

Youth size hockey sticks are now available which are lighter, shorter in shaft length and blade size and have a smaller shaft radius for a better grip for young players’ hands.

Curve - sticks are made for either Left or Right handed shots.

The lower hand on the stick shaft when shooting determines whether you shoot Left or Right.

A slight curve of about ¼ inch is standard because a straight stick blade is very hard to find and I don’t believe they are even made any more.

A big curve of 1/2 inch or more on the other hand is out of the question until your child gets to Bantam, and even then I don’t think it’s necessary.

John Shorey

Author – “Hockey Made Easy”

jshorey@hockeymadeeasy.com